Remagen – Koblenz

Stage   no. 15
Date Wednesday 20 May 1998
Distance stage   49,5 km
Distance acum. 575,5 km
Quality of signs Good
Quality of the hike A (fantastic!): lots of variety and very pretty 

Today’s my lucky day: it is a beautiful (and hot) spring day.

I leave the city of Remagen early in the morning, as I have a long way to go to Koblenz. The first part of this stage leads high and low along the river Rhein to the village of Andernach. To get there I cross small villages like Bad Bodendorf (typical) en Bad Breisig (ancient tourist glory). The second part of this stage takes me through fields and acres (and incidentally some vinyards) to the suburbs of Koblenz.

At this point, at the outskirts of the city, the official Trail of the E8 and its signs stop. It resumes in the centre of the city at the central railway station. As I have the intention to walk all the way from Amsterdam to Vienna, I also walk this extra section into the city centre. The extra kilometers (approx. 4 km) are not so easy, after such a long and hot day. But that’s the consequence of my intention to walk all the way. 

At the railway station I take the direct train back to Remagen.

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Rheinbach – Remagen

Stage   no. 14
Date Sunday 1 February 1998
Distance stage   42,0 km
Distance acum. 526,0 km
Quality of signs Good
Quality of the hike A (fantastic!): lots of variety and spectacular views; really a top-stage! 

I drive to Rheinbach where I park my car.

My E8-experiences will go to a new frontier; I will be coming to walk along the river Rhein for many kilometers from today onwards. Today is a delightful wintersday, with lots of sun and temperatures around freezing point. The first part of the stage (approx. 20 kilometers) takes me through woods and crossing fields. Unexpectedly, the woods stop and I find myself at a remarkable spot overlooking the city of Bonn (in those days the capital city of Germany), situated in the Rhein valley. The Trail continous with a crossing of the residential area, but even this is not boring. The part of town that I cross (Bad Godesberg) is typical for its huge ancient villas which all have different architecture. After crossing the park I start to walk along the river Rhein. After some kilometers the path climbs up the hill and continues at approx. 150 meters altitude on the west bank of the Rhein Valley. Of course, there are magnificant views from here, overlooking the Rhein, the other side of the valley, and ahead of me to what the future has in mind for me. 

After arriving in the city of Remagen (near the bridge, famous for its part in the war) I take the train back to Bonn and to Rheinbach.

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Gemünd – Rheinbach

Stage   no. 13
Date Sunday 26 October 1997
Distance stage    44,5 km
Distance acum. 484,0 km
Quality of signs Good
Quality of the hike B (great): variety in forrests and nice views

After I have left home very early and drove to the village of Kall I park my car in Kall near the railway station. I take the bus back to Gemünd to pick up the Trail where I had to leave it the previous time. The ankle is cured very well over the past six months. I had to cancel a part of my summer vacation because of it (I was supposed to supervise a mountaneering course in the Alps). I am up and running now, and eager to move on.

It becomes a nice autumn day in the beautifully coloured Eifel hills. The first 6 kilometers take me back to Kall, and afterwards I continue to the pitoresque village of Bad Münstereifel (18 kilometers from the start). It turns out to be a nice, typical old city with a car-free citycentre and nice typically German-style houses. In Bad Münstereifel it is still quite on the terrasses and in the bakery shops. That will change during the course of the Sunday for sure! After this nice part of the stage the Trail continous for another 20 kilometers through the countryside of the Eifel hills. Just before arriving in the village of Rheinbach (which are at the foot of the hills, in the low lands) there is a tower in the forrest, from where I have a great panoramic view. The Eifel in autumn colours and with low sunshine is magnificent. Some kilometers further down the hill I arrive in Rheinbach, my finish for today.

I take the train back to Kall and drive home. Hiking can be very satisfying.

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Mulartshütte – Gemünd

Stage   no. 12
Date Saturday 31 May 1997
Distance stage   40,0 km
Distance acum. 439,5 km
Quality of signs Good
Quality of the hike A (fantastic!): many great sections all stage long

I park my car in the same shabby street in downtown Aachen, behind the central railway station, as I did in my last stage. I take the bus to my starting point in the small village of Mulartshütte.

It is a beautiful day in the Eifel hills. I get to walk all day up and down hill, through woods and along fields, crossing pitoresque villages and passing lakes. On a day like this there are a lot of people outdoors, but I do not recognize any fellow-hiker. There’s lots of touristic activity going on near the Rur-Stausee lake, where many people enjoy the waterside in boats and waterbikes. After I have passed the 36km mark (just before arriving in the village of Gemünd) I sprain my ankle. I did not see a loose rock on/in the road, and I hear a clear krrrrr-sound when I put my foot on the ground. After limping the inevitable 4 kilometers to the nearest civilized area I arrive in Gemünd at the railway station/busstop.

It turns out that there are no more busses today (Sunday schedule . . . .) and I take a taxi to the village of Kall, which is further down the E8. I had in mind for today to walk all the way up to Kall (another 6km), but I will have to leave that part to the next stage. In Kall I take the train back to Aachen. A beautiful day has come to an end. Too bad for the ankle.

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Geilenkirchen – Mulartshütte

Stage   no. 11
Date Saturday 9 November 1996
Distance stage    37,5 km
Distance acum. 399,5 km
Quality of signs Reasonable
Quality of the hike C (good): some nice views, some boring sections (crossing of the city of Aachen)

In the early morning I park my car in downtown Aachen and take the bus back to my starting point, in the city of Geilenkirchen.

The first part of this stage is not exciting, as it goes straight through some forrests. It brings me to the edge of the valley Aachener Kessel, which gives a nice view over the city of Aachen. The Trail continous to go through the industrial and residential area of the city, which are no fun to walk. Leaving the city on the south side of town, the Trail bumps into the first hillsides of the Eifel hills. There are nice views in the opposit direction, overlooking Aachen and the lowlands behind it. The next stages promise to be very worthwhile, as they will lead through the Eifel hills, which a personal favorite of mine. By the time I arrive in the village of Mulartshütte I have the option to go back by bus to Aachen (it goes only twice per day), or continue to walk to the village of Simonskall and hope that there is any bus that can take me from there.

The choice is not very hard to make, and I call it a day. I go back home, statiesfied and already looking forward to the next stages.


Deutsche Gründlichkeit: making sure you see the white & red signs!
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Reuver – Geilenkirchen

Stage   no. 10
Date Thursday 18 July 1996
Distance stage    61,0 km
Distance acum. 362,0 km
Quality of signs Good
Quality of the hike D (not so good): lots of boring sections, including forrests

Today is supposed to become a good day for me. As I have no travel time to waste, and as I am familiar with the first few kilometers of this E8-stage I plan to make it a long day.

I start at 4.30am at the White Stoan(it is still dark outside). The first kilometers of the stage are along the Pieterpath, and after that the E8 goes left, into Germany again. After passing some lovely spots (misty lakes in the twilight, and all) I cross woods and forrests for a long time. I am not amused when I find out while walking the stage that in Gert Trego’s directions this stage there are some miscalculations in the distances that I am covering. I have to use more time than I hoped I would be. Only in the final 20 kilometers of the stage (between the cities of Heinsberg and Geilenkirchen, having already covered 41 kilometers!) the trail leads through fields and open landscapes and I can enjoy a bit more of the surroundings. At 5.00pm I arrive in Geilenkirchen. My upper legs hurt a lot and I have a blister under my foot. It is pretty busy in the town on a lovely summersday like today.

I take the bus to Sittard (Netherlands) and go by train back home, to Reuver.The first really-big-E8-stage is done.

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Rheurdt – Reuver

Stage   no. 9
Date Wednesday 15 May 1996
Distance stage   47,0 km
Distance acum. 301,0 km
Quality of signs Good
Quality of the hike C (good): variety in scenery, but also some boring sections

This will be an exciting day for me, as I will be walking home. For over one year now I am residing in the village Reuver, next to the border with Germany. On the border crossing the E8 touches the Netherlands again, as well as the Dutch Pieterpad. In the early morning I walk from home to the railway station of Reuver, take the train to Venlo, take the bus from Venlo to Moers and the next one to Rheurdt, where I left the E8 the previous time.

It is a very pleasant day in the springtime. Crossing some mild hillsides (mostly covered by woods, which ruins the views) I walk to the village of Kaldenkirchen. From here the path continous to go south using the famous Pieterpad-Trail. This part of the stage is a little disappointing: on the righthand side there is the valley of the river Maas, but there is no view to be seen due to the high trees. The long straight sandy road is not stimulating either. The finish of my stage is at the café The White Stoan, in my residence (at that time).

Despite the two blisters that I have under my feet I walk home, of course.

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Xanten – Rheurdt

Stage   no. 8
Date Monday 18 March 1996
Distance stage    34,5 km
Distance acum. 254,0 km
Quality of signs Not so good
Quality of the hike C (good): variety in scenery, there are the first hills along the Trail

I have chosen another grey day to do a stage of my E8 hike.

Leaving the ancient city of Xanten I pass the village of Kamp-Lintfort (ancient monastery with garden next to the trail, it looks impressive) and continue to the village of Rheurdt. Only in the final kilometers of this stage the area that I am crossing is getting prettier and wider. So far, the landscape is very boring; it’s flat and the view is blocked by trees that are everywhere along the roads and between meadows. On a hill just above Rheurdt I am confronted for the first time with a typical E8-phenomenon: the signs on the trees tell me to go right, the description of Gert Trego tells me to go left. As I can see the village of Rheurdt in the valley, the choise where to go is not so hard for me (n.b. the section of the E8 between Kleve and Aachen is newly setup in such a way that the trail hardly crosses any villages anymore. This is not for the benefit of Long Distance Hikers, who have a desire for a shop, a restaurant or a bus stop every now and then).

From Rheurdt I take busses to get back to Xanten again, and drive home again. It’s not so far anymore to where I live.

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Kleve – Xanten

Stage   no. 7
Date Tuesday 20 February 1996
Distance stage   36,0 km
Distance acum. 219,5 km
Quality of signs Not so good
Quality of the hike E (bad): boring, chilly, white, cold

I start this morning very early with parking my car in the city of Xanten, where I plan to finish later today. On my way to Xanten the news bulletin on the radio tells people to stay indoors today if they do not have a specific need to be outside. I take the bus to the city of Kleve, where my starting point is.

Today is a terrible wintersday; it’s snowing and storming, and it turns out that I am the only person who dares to be out on the streets (even in a city like Kleve!). Unfortunately, the trail leads through a lot of woods today, which makes it even more boring. Of course I meet nobody the whole day. I don’t even see anybody else! Passing the village of Bedburg-Hau (there is an ancient monestary next to the trail) and the village of Kalkar (no remarkable buildings to be seen) I continue my way to the ancient city of Xanten.

Once I have arrived here, I get in the car (the heating works very well!) and drive home again. Even now, at the end of the day there is noone to be seen on the streets.

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Nijmegen – Kleve

Stage   no. 6
Date Wednesday 13 December 1995
Distance stage   29,5 km
Distance acum. 183,5 km
Quality of signs Not so good
Quality of the hike E (bad): no variation in landscape or scenery, no fun

It is a cold wintersday as I travel to Nijmegen to continue my E8-hike.

I leave the city of Nijmegen and cross the Long-Distance-Path (LDP) Pieterpad, at the foot of Duivelsberg, or Devilsmountain hill. The Pieterpad is the most popular hiking trail in the Netherlands, crossing the entire country from north to south. At the Devilsmountain there is an official LDP roadsign, with the encouraging note: “Vienna 1803 km”. Some minutes later I have passed the German border, walking along the busy road. Immediately after entering Germany I loose the signs in the field, and the guide does not offer me much support here. Using a detour I get to the village of Kranenburg. The signs in the next part of the stage are a little easier to follow. Just before I arrive in the city of Kleve, I have a nice view over the city from the Sternberg hill. Due to the decreasing outside temperatures I decide to finish today in Kleve, and not to continue to the village of  Kalkar, which I had in mind originally. There is no fun to be outdoors and walk on a day like this.

I take the bus back to Nijmegen and the train back home.

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