E8 Trail

Today I have a relatively short stage ahead of me, it’s going to be my final stage on the E8. After my start in 1994 I have hiked 108 days to make it to the historical Waalbridge at Nijmegen. 

When I start at Dodewaard it is cold; the strong wind comes from the east and the temperature is around freeing point. After 7km my friend Jos joines me for the final 20km of my E8. I have hiked over 99% of my E8 by myself and it is nice to have some support on this final (very cold) day. On our way back to the river Waal we pass one of the many windmills.

countryside filled with windmills, this one at Herveld

In this part of the country there are many trails signed which can be confusing. Fortunately I am digitally aligned (since the UK section), which is a big blessing. I remember back in 1996, when I was as far as in the west of Germany in the Eifel Hills, I have spent a day to go by car from home to the area to find the train and bus time schedules along the E8; there was no internet so all I could do was get the relevant information locally.

many signs

Those days have gone by, now. Of course if you hike multiple days per trip you are far less dependant on public transport. But being close to home (Nijmegen is half an hour drive for me) it is easier to make long days and recover after arriving home agian.

clear signage

After many cold kilometers, and after the sun has set, we arrive near Nijmegen. My wife Ingrid joins us for the last kilometer crossing the Waal again, using the historical bridge. I was here also 30 years ago, on the 16th November 1995. My E8 has come to an end.

Finish of my E8 at the Waalbridge in Nijmegen

Although this a big achievement for anyone, so also for me, at the end of this day we are cold, tired and we are happy to get something to eat in the city center of Nijmegen. The streets and the shops are decorated for the holiday season.

It is always great to be on your way to the horizon, even on cold days like this. 

During the previous three stages in the Netherlands the weather conditions were lovely and it was a joy to be outdoors. Today is not such a day; the weather forecast was horrible and it is all happening: strong winds, heavy rain showers and low temperatures. So the only thing to enjoy is the feeling that you are on your way to the horizon, fighting the elements. 

clay soil all over the Netherlands

In November the daylight is really short, today the sun is up for some 8,5 hours but the dark skies take some twilight hours from that. I am wearing my full rain suit (jacket, trousers and shoe covers) during the full day, which is for the first time in 107 stages on the E8. 

flat countryside with endless skies

The trail continuous to cross the Betuwe region, with its fruit orchards. At 11:00 I pass the old (tiny) city of Buuren. The old church tower has a very traditional carillon, that plays for me the tune of Blowin’ In The Wind. There is a lot of wind today. The trail follows the historical city walls of Buuren, passing some cannons on the way. 

cannonballs blowing in the wind? at Buuren

Halfway today’s stage I cross the city of Tiel, the capital of the Betuwe region. The trail passes a big supermarket where I get myself some pastry and beverages. In Tiel there is the weekly market on the streets but in these weather conditions there are not many people outside. On the southside of the city I use the tiny ferry service to cross the river. It allows pedestrians and bicycles only. 

ferry at Tiel, with the next river crossing at the horizon

On the south bank of the river Waal I continue eastbound towards the bridge at Beneden Leeuwen, which is a landmark that is visible from far away (in the flat countryside). 

Bridge across the Waal river at Beneden Leeuwen

After crossing the river the trail continuous eastbound, along the dikes. In the final hours of today’s hike the trail leaves the road on top of the dike and follows some muddy road on the bottom of the dike. Being carefull not to slip I continue in the fading daylight. After sunset I arrive in the village of Dodewaard. The railway station is located a few kilometers further down the trail. Fortunately the train back home has no delays. I am happy to have completed this long stage, under these tough weather and terrain conditions, without any disruptions. Only one more stage to go.

In the morning at 6:00 a friend drops me off in Lexmond. That’s one of the advantages of hiking close to your home. It is dark and cold (wind from the east), but the weather should be good today.

Lexmond, in the community of Vianen, is a name that is mentioned most on the Dutch radio; it is situated next to the crossing of two of the busiest highways in the country, the A27 and the A2, and during many hours per day there are traffic jams. It is inevitable that the sound of the traffic resonands to the trail, also later on today as the trail goes parallel to the A2 and the A15. Nevertheless it is nice to be on the trail, with wind in your hair and cold air in your nose. Shortly after the start some trees are being passed, in the Netherlands we refer to this as woods, or a forrest, but when you have crossed German or Slovakian forrests on your E8 you understand the tinyness of our country. 

out of the forrest, on to the road

The majority of the scenery today is crossing meadows, on paved and unpaved roads. It is comfortable to use, so it gives the oppertunity to enjoy the endless views to the horizon, in stead of watching your feet the whole day. 

clear signage

After 17km the trail crosses the village of Schoonrewoerd. Next to the church there is an award winning bakeryshop and I enjoy some pastry on the street bench outsidein front of the shop. An hour later I cross the city of Leerdam. It is small, very traditional for its production of cheese and candles. From here onwards the trail starts to follow the big rivers again. 

The trail follows the river banks of the Linge river, with big curves through the countryside. The small villages that you pass on the way are lovely and peacefull. The region that the trail is entering now, the Betuwe, is the country’s fruit barn. Along the trail many kilometers of orchards (apples, pears, prume, etc.) are strictly organised. Of course in October the views are not so charming as in May when the trees are blossoming, but is still nice. Just before arriving in my finish for today I pass a windmill, a white one. Geldermalsen has a railway station on a very line, so it is easy to go home again.

inevitable windmill

In the train back home I calculate that I have now hiked exactly 4.000 km’s along the E8. Only a few more to go until my final finish.

It took me six legs of public transport to arrive at the Loetbos forrest. Today is the day after a big storm has passed northwest Europe; there is still a lot of wind, all in the back for the hiker who follows the trail eastbound.

In the first half hour after the start there are a few raindrops, for the rest of the day it remains dry. Although I am not very far from home (approx 120km) I am very strict on the gear that I brought with me, and that did not include a rainjacket. The scenery is extremely flat, lots of meadows with long, small canals in between. The roads are very straight. The roads are small, no specific space or paths for bicycles or pedestrians. Fortunately the car drivers keep the pace modest while passing by. 

typical views in Holland

After 18 kilometers the trail passes the small city of Schoonhoven; it does not cross any of the old town’s centre but goes straight to the ferry.

arriring in Schoonhoven

This one crosses the river continuously, there are quite a few cars, byciclists and pedestrians that use it, together with myself. On the other riverbank the trail leads southeast to the traditional village of Nieuwpoort. This is not the Nieuwpoort that all Dutch schoolchildren are being taught about in history classes (1600 Battle at Nieuwpoort), when the Dutch kicked out the Spanish worldpower. However this Nieuwpoort is also constructed in a defensive way; it still has the traditional star shapped city walls. The trail follows these and leaves the city southbound. 

The landscape is, continuously, very Hollands.

autumn in the Netherlands

The last 20 kilometers of this stage are crossing the meadows and fields; fortunately the soil (which has a high % of clay) is dry. I appreciate to walk on raods (so I don’t have to watch my feet at every step) but this is the contrary. It is nice to cross, what we call, nature passing meadows with cows and sheep, passing small canals with ducks and other waterbirds. 

standard scenery in Holland

At the end of the afternoon, when the twilight sets in, I arrive in the village of Lexmond. In the local cafeteria I order a Patatje Oorlog (French Fries War), of which they never heard of. It’s named over here Patatje Hopeloos (French Fries Hopeless). Hiking in the Netehrlands is good.