Dursey Island – Eyeries

Dursey - Eyeries

 Stage no. 81
Date Wednesday 24 August 2016
Distance stage        30,0 km
 Distance acum. 2.959,5 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike A (excellent): hills and great ocean views

https://www.strava.com/activities/7917095848

Link to Strava

After a long day of travelling I arrive at 18.00 at the island. I hike to the top of the highest hill by following the mountain way. The weather is great and the forecast for tonight is very good. When darkness has settled over the west of Europe I have my photogear ready and I make a startrail picture of the old tower at the top of the hill.

Startrails 2234 - 2255

Magic high up in the sky; Dursey Island

The next morning I collect all of my lugage (that’s a lot!) and I hike towards the southwest end of the Island, to the wale watching point. There is no wale in sight and I turn around and start my way to the east, starting the E8 at its most western point. After crossing the Island and the spectacular ride with the cablecar I start my hike on the mainland of Ireland at 10.15. The trail is very well marked with sign poles of approx. 1.5 meters high which are situated strategically: from one pole you can usually easily see the next one which you need to walk to. After climbing up and down the hill north of the cablecar the trail passes the small beach in the bay of Garinish. The weather is sunny but not too warm and there are few people outside.

Garinish Bay

Garinish Bay

The trail continous up and along the hills towards the village of Allihies (one shop, several B&B’s). Close to the beach before the village there is a camping site which is mainly populated by camper vans. There are only a few people on the beach, this part of Ireland is really remote from any population of any significance. It is tempting to stop here for the day and enjoy the Atlantic beach.  However, Allihies is too early for me to stop, I have planned to stop in the next village, Eyeries, or even one further, Ardgroom. After Allihies the trail goes up the hill, which is tough for me carrying the huge backpack that I have with me (including bivouacking gear, photo gear, water, etc.). After passing the top of the hillrange north of Allihies the trail goes wonderfully straight gently down the hill, towards Eyeries. At the end of the day it is still a long way to get there, but the weather continous to be great, the views are really nice, and I can’t resist the big dark blackberries that grow on the side of the road. 

I spend the night in a B&B just outside the village of Eyeries (two shops, one post office, several B&B’s, one restaurant). I really have to reduce the weight that I am carrying: continuing like this will make the next couple of days an ordeal; that’s not what the E8 is about, it should be abount having fun!

 

Advertentie
Geplaatst in 1 - Ireland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Stage 0: Dursey Island

80.9 Dursey Island

   
Date Thursday 31 March 2016
Distance stage         6,5 km
   
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike A (excellent): hills and spectacular ocean views

https://www.strava.com/activities/7917030416

Link to Strava

After a thorough preparation my E8-hike continous in Ireland, at Ireland’s most remote location from Dublin: Dursey Pond. My wife joined me for this once-in-a-lifetime experience: It was superb!

Early in the morning we leave the B&B in Castletownbeare and drive to Dursey Pond, the only location in Ireland where a cablecar is operating, which is also the only cablecar in Europe that crosses the sea. At this hour of the morning at this time of the year we are the first visitors to the Island. We hike along the road on the Island towards the southwest cape, enjoying the spectacular views on this Sunny day. A few of the houses on the Island are still being used by farmers who look after their sheep. From the cape, Dursey Head, we start the E8 by going back to the cablecar. The colours of the ocean change continously by the changing angle of the Sunshine in the water: from dark blue to light blue to turqoise. Close to the harbour, near the cablecar, we can even see Dolphins jumping out the water! We arrive a bit too early for the afternoon service of the cablecar and we wait near the old church on the Island. At a quater to three we are back on the Mainland, and I am ready for my crossing of Ireland!

Spectacular views

Spectacular views

Cablecar to Dursey Island

Cablecar to Dursey Island

Spectacular views!

Spectacular views!

At Dursey Head: surrounded by the Atlantic!

At Dursey Head: surrounded by the Atlantic!

Excellent signs

Excellent signs

not state of the art, but functional

not state of the art, but functional

IMG_2647

Ready for the Irish section of the E8!

Geplaatst in 1 - Ireland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Ustrzyki Gorne – Wolosate

80 Ustrziki Gorne - Wolosate

Stage no. 80
Date Sunday 27 April 2014
Distance stage      26,5 km
Distance acum. 2929,5 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike A (excellent): hills and great views

https://www.strava.com/activities/7916922781

Link to Strava

At 05.00 I am back on the Trail again, for my final day to the Ukrainian border.

I pass the bus stop and go right to the big parking lot. There the path goes up the hill through the forrest, again very well prepared: boards are covering muddy sections, steep parts are supported with railings and stayed steps, it is all very impressively taken care of. Some will say that this makes it very artificial to walk here, but I am happy that I am able to look around me and enjoy the scenery while walking in stead of looking at my feet only to make sure I put them down safely. Again at approximately 1000 meters altitude I leave the tree line and it gets very cold due to the fierce wind. The sky is blue, the views from the ridge are great and Wolosate is far in the deep on the right hand side. On the pass Tarnicka I decide not to climb the Tarnica hill, which is a supplement just off the E8-Trail and it must provide a fantastic view on the valley. I continue my way down to the bivouac shelter, where I have a break. In the valley that is crossed consequently to the east the temperate gets comfortable again.

View from the shelter to the Halicz hill

View from the shelter to the Halicz hill

After reaching the ridge again the Halicz hill needs to be climbed. From a distance this looked very tough but it is well to do. Also here there are many supports on the path for those who could need it. The views from the top are superb, also to the lower hills in the east. After a steep descent and a short ascent I start the final descent to the Ukrainian border. At the end of the descent there is again a bivouac shelter. Just 50 meters from here is the Ukrainian border, clearly marked by a Polish and a Ukrainian landmark. I take the inevitable pictures, also when some Polish hikers join me on this location. After picking up some souvenirs (little rocks with paint from the landmarks) I go back to the bivouac shelter and continue my way down. Close to the bivouac shelter there is a huge lavatory building, which indicates that it can be pretty busy around here. I follow the road down the hill and every few minutes there are hikers coming up the hill to enjoy a great day up in the hills. After reaching the valley the road continues towards the village of Wolosate. Just before the end there is a road to the left/south that crosses the creek and leads to the Beskiden Pass. The signs say that that the road is closed and not to be used, and that is also what the officer of the borderpolice tells me after I did cross the bridge. I manage to visit the Beskidenpass, together with him, and he takes a picture of me and we walk back to the bridge again.

Ukrainian border at the Beskiden Pass

Ukrainian border at the Beskiden Pass

The rest of the road to Wolosate is easy; many tourists are by now swarming around the tiny village, enjoying the scenery. In Wolosate, oposite the parking lot there is the last E8-sign. It is for the first time in 21 years that I finish my trip without seeing the sign that indicates where I should be going the next time.

Geplaatst in 7- Poland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Smerek – Ustrzyki Gorne

79 Smerek - Ustrzyki Gorne

Stage no. 79
Date Saturday 26 April 2014
Distance stage     28,0 km
Distance acum. 2903,0 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike A (excellent): hills and great views

https://www.strava.com/activities/7916933492

Link to Strava

During the night there was a huge rain shower during 20 minutes. I expect the path to be soaken wet and I put on my gaiters and tape the front of my shoes.

I leave the inn at 05.02, half an hour before sunrise. The signs follow the main raod for almost 2 kilometers and then cross a bridge and lead into the forrest, up the hill. After passing the big sign of the national park that I am about to enter there is a big bivouac shelter. At approximately 1000 meters altitude the trees fade and soon I pass the tree line. The top of the Smerek hill, with a big cross, is visible from quit a distance, but it is a steep climb to get there. On the ridge to the Smerek hill the wind blowing fiercely and cold. The sky is still blue but it’s getting partly clouded. The view from the top of the Smerek hill is magnificent, and there are many benches to sit and enjoy it, but it is too cold for me to stop. Ten minutes later I pass the Orlowicza Pass, also loaded with benches, and I continue to follow the ridge.

Great view & dark clouds

Great view & dark clouds

From the top of the Osadzki hill you see the mountain cabin Chatka Puchatka clearly in front of you: the three pointed roofs of its buildings clearly stand out on the hill at the horizon. In exactly four hours after leaving the inn in the valley I reach the cabin. I appears to be open, but there are no visitors yet.

Chatka Puchatka

Chatka Puchatka

I continue my way by descending to the pass at Berehy Gorne. The path in this section is very well taken care of: steep parts are covered with railing supports for the hikers, and the steps are stayed to provide a safe and comfortable passing and to prevent erosion. The temperature increases, while being out of the wind. Down in the valley at Berehy Gorne there are no facilities open: there are some small cabins where, during the summer time (?) souvenirs and snacks are being sold but it’s all closed now. There are many other hikers arounds here, enjoying the lovely weather. After a short break I continue my way by going up the next hill. During the last hour, while descending, it looked high and mean. This appears to be not the case. The climb is long but very well prepared with railings and stayed steps. Nevertheless there are some steep sections to be covered before you reach the ridge again. On top of the Polonina Carynska hill the wind is blowing fiercely again. The view is great, again, and it attracts many other hikers from all directions. During the descent the temperature gets back to comfortable again, and when I arrive in the village of Ustrzyki Gorne the sun is shining pleasantly.

Ustrzyki Gorne appears to be small, but completely designed to host hikers. Almost everyone I see on the streets here is carrying big backpacks. I stay the night in the hostel that is on the right from where the path leaves the forrest.

Geplaatst in 7- Poland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Cisna – Smerek

78 Cisna - Smerek

Stage no. 78
Date Friday 25 April 2014
Distance stage     19,5 km
Distance acum. 2875,0 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike B (very good): hills, fields

https://www.strava.com/activities/7916980893

Link to Strava

I left the pension at 06.45 and cross Cisna, which appears to be bigger than I expected, with even some campings and restaurants.

The signs lead across the railway bridge and up the hill through the forrest. There are some incidental sections with yellow mud. The climb up to the top of the Rozki hill is well to do. From here the path follows the ridge, in the beginning between trees and from the top of Worowosoka hill through open terrain.

Nice views above the treeline

Nice views above the treeline

The ridge is not difficult to follow and the ascents and descents are mild for the legs and the feet. The signs are, again, very well situated, although some could use a bit of paint to stand out more. On the top of the hill Okraglik the border with Slovakia is reached. There are many Polish and Slovakian hiking signs, and of course the inevitable landmark.

Final visit to Slovakia

Final visit to Slovakia

I take a short break and enjoy the view to Slovakia. The E8 signs follow the border for a few minutes, together with the white-red-white signs of a Slovakian local trail. After a few minutes the E8 goes left, into Poland again, and the Slovakian signs go straight alaong the border. On the next big hill, the Fereczata, I enjoy the view to the south for the last time (the view to the north is blocked by trees and bushes). The descent is comfortable. After crossing a forrest road the path continues downhill by using another forrest road. In this section there are some big passages with yellow mud, which prevent any easy passing. The path continues through fields and soon the first houses of Smerek are in sight. There I loose the signs but continue downhill to the main road, and here I go left to the village of Smerek.

Along the main road there is a small grocery shop and next to it is an inn, where I stay for the night. It’s an ideal combination for any hiker: cheap place to stay with a large variety of yoghurts, sweets and snacks next door. During the afternoon the rain, that was forecasted for three days now, has finally arrived. It gets dry at 20.00.

Geplaatst in 7- Poland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Komancza – Cisna

77 Komancza - Cisna

Stage no. 77
Date Thursday 24 April 2014
Distance stage     34,0 km
Distance acum. 2855,5 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike B (very good): hills, fields

https://www.strava.com/activities/7916997600

Link to Strava

After a huge breakfast I start at 06.45 with my stage to Cisna. The weather forecast was not good (rain showers) but the sky is only partly clouded.

The path leaves the road to the village of Duszatyn for a shortcut. Unfortunately there is a lot of yellow clay in this section, which makes me pessimistic for the rest of today’s stage. Just before the village of Preluki the path joins the road again, and follows it to Duszatyn, which appears to contain some 5 houses only. The signs go east, into a narrow valley along the creek. The forrest road is comfortable for some kilometers, and then continues as a hiking path. Some bad sections with mud and clay are covered with boards, which make a safe and clean passage possible. The path circles around the first lake without problems.

Passing the first lake

Passing the first lake

A few minutes later it also goes around  the second lake. Here there are a few creeks that need to be crossed: steep steps to go down to the creek, cross the creek on stones or branches and climb up a few steep steps again. Consequently the path goes up the hill to the peak of the Chryszczata. It is well to do, with only one really steep section at 2/3 of the climb. I take a break at the top, where a picknick bench is situated next to some monument. From here the path goes south (easy) between trees (boring). The pass Zebrak is reached easily, without any descent. Consequently the hill Jaworne needs to be climbed. The ascent is filled with short sections of descending, which makes it quite anoying. South of the top of the Jaworne, before the black signs go left, there is an open spot in the trees on the lefthand side and I can enjoy the view to the northeast for the first time. While being there I see a hurdle of buffaloos, only 100 meters lower on the hill,  grazing peacefully.

Wild buffaloos

Wild buffaloos

After enjoying the sight for a few minutes I continue my way. During the rest of the path to the hill Osina I am busy with going through short sections of ascending and descending. From the Osina onwards the general focus is on descending. The path enters Cisna near a small grocery shop.

My First choice for B&B happens to be situated next door to the grocery shop, so it is the ideal place to stay. There is a big kitchen that I can use to prepare my dinner, and wash my clothes.

Geplaatst in 7- Poland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Wisloczek – Komancza

76 Wisloczek - Komancza

Stage no. 76
Date Wednesday 23 April 2014
Distance stage      33,0 km
Distance acum. 2821,5 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, fields

https://www.strava.com/activities/8007124613

Link to Strava

When I leave the cabin in the morning it starts to drizzle.

I leave the village by following the main road. Near the curve at the creek I join the E8 signs again and I continue my way to Pulawy Gorne. The road is comfortable and it’s easy to maintain a good pace. It is springtime and flowers and trees are blossoming.

20140423 P1010674 wisloczek

After I have passed the second skilift in the village the signs lead to the right, up the hill to the south. After entering the forrest the hike gets boring; the path goes straight for some kilometers, there is hardly any view due to all the trees on the left and right. The signs along the path are very well placed and also very well maintained. Before arriving on the hill Bukowica the path passes a simple bivouac cabin.

Shelter for the storm

Shelter for the storm

Shortly afterwards the path joins the yellow signs of a local trail and then turns right to the top of the hill, to the antenna tower. The weather is dry, and the visibility is improving but still not great. After descending the hill on the other side the signs lead to the right in a forrest road, again up the hill in to a forrest. In this section the path is not easy: there are several passages where yellow clay make the soil very soft and difficlut to move. After leaving the forrest in the open field the view improves with every step uphill. There are thunderclouds in the southeast ahead of me, but with the wind in my back I feel comfortable that they will not reach me. In the final forrest section of today there are again some parts with yellow clay, but these are not as complex as a few hours ago. After passing the first houses of the village Komancza the path crosses the railroad under a tunnel and goes to the right into the brandnew main road towards the centre of the village. There is a grocery shop on the lefthand side. Where the church is on the lefthand side and the railway station on the righthand side the signs go left, into the village.

I spent the night in an inn that is situated two hundred meters further along the main road. I had to clean my boots after todays clay sections.

Geplaatst in 7- Poland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Lubatowa – Wisloczek

75 Lubatowa - Wisloczek

Stage no. 75
Date Tuesday 22 April 2014
Distance stage      18,0 km
Distance acum. 2788,5 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, fields

https://www.strava.com/activities/7917010279

Link to Strava

After travelling for more than 12 hours from home I arrive in Lubatowa for a six day hiking trip. This trip should enable me to finalize the E8 in Poland.

I start at 15.10 in front of the small grocery shop. After passing the church I turn right, up the hill towards Zdroj. The weather is nice with some hazy sunshine and warm temperatures. The views to the west and south are very nice.

Nice view back to Lubatowa

Nice view back to Lubatowa

The road is easy just like the crossing of Iwonicz Zdroj, where many tourists are enjoying the weather and the tulips in the flowerbeds. After leaving the village in the forrest the path goes up the hill. There are some simple shelter-roofs built along the path, which should accomodate some hikers, even during a bivouac. While passing Rymanow Zdroj it seems this is even more touristic that its twin village; there are several outlets selling snacks along the road. The path leaves the road and goes up the hill. After leaving the forrest I pass a picknick spot where many wooden statues are stored. The path continues through the fields, up the hill.

Nice view back to Zdroj

Nice view back to Zdroj

After reaching the forrest again the path goes down the hill, to the road near the village of Wisloczek. After crossing two creeks I reach the road, and leave the E8 by turning right to Wisloczek.

I spend the night in a cozy cabin in Wisloczek, managed by one of the B&B addresses in the village. My host tells me that in the summer season there is a hikers camp situated near the creek. Hikers can put up their own tent and stay for the night, or rent a place in the big tent that is put up there.

Geplaatst in 7- Poland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Barwinek – Lubatowa

e8 kaart barwinek

Stage no. 74
Date Monday 3 June 2013
Distance stage     32,0 km
Distance acum. 2770,5 km
Quality of signs very good
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, fields

Today is supposed to be an exciting day: it is my First Polish stage in the E8, and there is no formal E8-section from where I am now in the next 21 kilometers. There is a local hiking trail though, that leads the way to the E8-signs. I wake up at 4.00, just before a huge rain shower starts outside. I leave the B&B at 5.00am.

It still drizzles a bit when I walk back to the main road. I go left to Barwinek, and after some searching for a sign I go right (the first road after the bus stop). I follow the green local signs to the small village of Zyndranowa, and I continue my way up the hill. Everything in the woods is soaken wet, including my shoes. It has started to rain again, so the prospects for today are not very promessing. Going up the slope of the Czerwony Horka hill is comfortable, it’s not steep. I continue my way to the next hill, the Ostra, which is getting more steep and slippery. After passing the top the path goes downhill to the small river and follows this to the village of Stasiane. There is small, bare, camping location along the road, but it is completely fludded. No, there are no campers. I continue along the main road, still following the green signs. I pass a regular camping site, where even some tents and caravans are located, before I cross the very busy road between Barwinek and Dukla. On the other side of the road there is a clear sign that indicates the path to continue up the hill. Without too much signs I follow some tracks up the hill, crossing some trees, and some open fields. I end up in the forrest of the Dziurcz hill, and consequently the Czertez hill. On some steep parts of the hills it is extremely slippery and I end up with many mud stains on my raincoat to proove it. The trail up on this ridge is very clear, well maintained and the signs are very good. However, due to the trees and bushes I am not able to look any further ahead than some 50 meters. This makes it a bit tiresome to walk, and my pace goes down automatically.  After a long while the signs indicate to go down the hill on the right hand side, which turns out to be a very steep slope, covered with chopped trees and branches. After this section the green signs join the red signs that indicate the E8-Trail again. I follow these to the little church in the woods at Pustelnia sw Jana. I arrive there at 12.10, I have some chcolate bars for lunch and I try to get my socks dry, now that it has stopped raining.

trying to get dry feet

trying to get dry feet

I follow the red signs down the hill, but while crossing an open field I loose sight of them, and I decide to continue down the hill straight on, down to the valley, which is some 150 meters below me. I arrive near the main road between Barwinek and Dukla again, the red signs join me 50 meters later on, and I follow them consequently to the east, up the hill to the top of the Cergowa. The first part of the climb is extremely slippery (almost: risky) due to the rain that has been pooring down during the past few days, and the clay soil on that part of the hill. The rest of the climb is not steep, and it is easy to maintain a steady pace. At the top of the Cergowa hill there is no visibilty due to the surrounding trees and the low hanging clouds. In the next few minutes down the hill the path passes some panoramic points that should give some nice views on bright days. The decent gets steep, still following excellent signs, but due to the forrest soil the path is not slippery. At the foot of the hill, where the soil is drenched with clay again the situation is very different; even the flat sections in the forrest are very slippery, and it is inevitable to get dirty, while walking, slipping, falling, etc. I meet a local guy in the forrest who’s looking for mushrooms and he assures me that I go in the right direction. After leaving the forrest I arrive on the main road, which I follow through the sunny fields, to the village of Lubatowa.

Sunny Poland

Sunny Poland

I decide not to continue for today, as there are dark clouds building up on the horizon.

This trip was very succesfull. Even though the circumstances were difficult I have been able to cover very good daily distances, the signs and paths in Poland are well maintained and the surroundings are more open than in the eastern part of Slovakia. I look forward to the next trip already.

Geplaatst in 7- Poland | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen

Ohla Hora – Barwinek (P)

e8 kaart olha hora

Stage no. 73
Date Sunday 2 June 2013
Distance stage     44,5 km
Distance acum. 2738,5 km
Quality of signs good
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, fields

During the night it has continued to rain for while. Later on I can see stars between the overcast against the dark sky.

I get up at 3.45 and I leave the cabin at 4.15. My legs are stiff, and my shoes are still wet. After a few minutes I pass the top of the Ohla Hora hill, and I start my decent to Kurimka. I cross the creek and I arrive in the very small village. I follow the signs and go right on the very small main road that crosses this valley. After some 15 minutes a sign shows that I have to go left, up through the fields and trees to the Makovica hill. The ascent is not as steep as it looks on the map, and the path and the signs are well maintained. On top of the Makovica hill there is a covered picknick location, without any activity on this early Sunday morning. I follow the ridge to the southeast. On the top of the Cierna Hora hill there is a huge watchtower and a small refuge (not locked). The weather is a bit foggy, so I do not have to be tempted to climb the tower. I would not have done so, due to the safety of being alone on the way (the construction of the tower looks very robust, though). On the last hill of this ridge there is a nice view to the southwest, after which the decent to the city of Svidnik is uncomplicated and easy.

5795 olha hora

In Svidnik I buy food & beverage in a small shop along the Trail which I use for breakfast. At 9.45 I continue my hike, and after passing the war monument (it has a lot of resemblance with the Slavin monument in Bratislava) I go uphill through the fields. The last part of the climb is along an easy road, and consequently down the hill to the village of Nizna Jedlova. Following the signs I pass the village, and go right after the bus stop. The next two kilometers turn out to be very anoying: there are many signs but the path is unclear, or just covered with bushes, or mud. I rely heavily on my compass to guide me in the direction of the next village, Kapisova, and it leads me correctly over the wide fields that need to be crossed. Around noon I have a short lunchbreak in Kapisova and I continue by following the E8-signs along the main road northbound. During the next 7 kilometers I pass several ancient Russian tanks from the 2nd World War, left after the battles on the Dukla Pass, on the border between Slovakia and Poland. In the (tiny) village of Vysna Pizana I leave the road and follow the signs across the fields and woods to another small village, Medvedie. I continue eastbound, the final Slovakian kilometers have come! In the forrest between Medvedie and the last Slovakian village of Vysny Komarnik, I loose the signs and find out that I am going in the wrong direction by the time I am close to the Polish border. I decide to continue my way northbound and after 10 minutes I arrive on top of the ridge, which is for many kilometers the border between Slovakia and Poland. Along the border the E3 finds its way, and I follow these signs eastbound towards the Dukla Pass, where the main road crosses the border. This point is also the start/finish of the Slovakian section of the E8.

last E8-sign in Slovakia

last E8-sign in Slovakia

I arrive at the border at 17.00, and again no customs officer is interested, or even present, when I pass another border on my hike along the E8. I loose some time to find a smart way to go cross country to the village of Zyndranowa, and I end up walking along the main road to the Polish village of Barwinek. Following the blue signs (no E-route) I arrive at a B&B in the first street on the left from the Dukla Pass, some 10 minutes hike into Poland. The hosts speak German very well. I am happy that this day was so succesfull, and that it finishes with a nice, hot shower.

Geplaatst in 6 - Slovakia | Tags: | Een reactie plaatsen