Vel’ky Saris – Hervartov

e8 kaart velky saris

Stage no. 71
Date Wednesday 30 May 2012
Distance stage     32,0 km
Distance acum. 2656,0 km
Quality of signs reasonable
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, fields

I was up early. The nightguard was supposed to give me my breakfast, but he was nowhere to be found. At 3.30am I am back on the Trail again, on my way in the dark to the village of Kanas. This is well to do as the Trail uses the regular road. After crossing Kanas in the twilight I enter the First forrest section of today. I see some wild boar that are looking for their breakfast (fortunately they don’t consider me). In this first forrest section there is more path-finding to be done than you would expect from the drawings on the map; many junctions and parallel paths, but the signs sometimes go straight through the bushes and trees. Unnecessarily anoying.  After leaving the forrest I cross the fields and appear to have missed the right direction, and I end up walking along the regular road to the village of Terna, in stead of through the fields. In Terna I pick up the E8- signs again and continue my way to the village of Hradisko, and through the fields and the trees beyond. I end up at the pass Sedlo Cergov, where there are many small cabins and refuges, but they are all closed in the summer season.

Passing Sedlo Cergov

Passing Sedlo Cergov


The next kilometer is a special one: the E8-Trail is joining here the newly marked E3-Trail. The specialty is that on this section the E8 goes north/east to the Duklapass, and that the E3 that comes from the opposite direction leads south/east to the same Duklapass.  After a few minutes I meet two Slovakian hikers, on their trans-Slowakian-trail, from the Duklapass to Bratislava along the E8. We chat a little bit, about the conditions of the next few kilometers, and about the soccer game between Slovakia and the Netherlands that is being played this evening. Further down the path, the Trail uses the mountain ridge that leads straight north. At some point, after I have not seen signs for many minutes, there are white-red-white signs that lead to the east, downhill. I loose a lot of time not knowing how to continue, as I expect to have to follow the ridge for some time. This appears to be correct, in the end, after walking down a few minutes, going back, down again, etc. I decide to follow my compass and instincts and continue to follow the ridge, and after 5 minutes the next e*-sign shows me that I am correct. After an hour or so I end up at the forrestroad to leads me at the end of the ridge downhill; it is clearly identifiable, and steep. Down in the valley I loose the signs again and I continue my way through the fields to the next village, Hervartov. After a few minutes I arrive there and I am startled to see in the central square a very well kept ancient wooden curch. The E8-signs appear to cross the church compound directly, entering from the other side. On the other side of the square there is a simple inn where I am able to spend the night.

Oldest wooden church in Slovakia (16th century)

Oldest wooden church in Slovakia (16th century)


The inn-keeper lives a minute down the road, and after I called the number that was on the front door of the inn she shows up and signs me in. She gives me the telephone number of a pizza-delivery service (there is no restaurant or so in the very small village of Hervartov) and 25 minutes later I enjoy a salami pizza and two bottles of Coke. The next day I decide not to continue due to my blisters. The inn-keeper is also the keeper of the old church and she shows me around, together with a schoolclass of Slovakian 12-year olds. It’s very impressive, and I have the feeling that I am far from home.

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Kosice – Vel’ky Saris

e8 kaart kosice

Stage no. 70
Date Tuesday 29 May 2012
Distance stage     59,0 km
Distance acum. 2624,0 km
Quality of signs good
Quality of the hike B ( very good): hills, fields, views

I arrived in Slovakia for a trip of three hiking days in my favorite time of the year: early summer, with long hours of daylight that enables you to move on. After flying to Bratislava I took the train to Trencin, where I have spent the evening, and where I got on the nightbus, eastbound.

At 04.00am sharp the bus arrives at the bus & railway station in Kosice. I take a taxi to the outskirts of Kosice where I pick up the Trail again in the morning twilight, at 04.15. The general direction of the Trail from Kosice is straight north, with some turns and curves here and there.  From Cermel the Trail goes uphill in stages, and the view that you have behind you, at Kosice and its surroundings, increases every few minutes. After crossing the open area, and spotting some foxes and deer, the Trail leads into the forrest. After passing a sign of a national park the trail is following a concrete wall of some 3 meters height for several kilometers. Just after map #136 ends the trail make a huge curve to the east, downhill towards Kysak. At the start of the descend there is a nice view on the valley below, situated high on the cliffs.

Great view!

Great view!


From the small map that I have printed from the internet I see in the deep the path where I will be walking in a few hours time. The trail crosses the town of Kysak, and leads consequently back west into the valley that you have been overviewing earlier on.

view back up to the cliff

view back up to the cliff


The path is not well taken care of and small bushes are making it not comfortable to walk. After turning north (uphill) the trail enters the bottom of map #115. I coincidentally discovered just a few days for  my trip that the section between map #136 and #115 is substantial, which is not obvious from the maps itself. In the forrest it is quite and peacefull enough to see some animals during the afternoon hours (like wild boar and deer) and it is easy to miss the exit to the right, which I do. Shortly after being on the right path again crossing a small creek is a challenge as the bridge lies ruined on the bank, but it is manageable to do it and keep your feet dry. Before arriving in the village of Lubovec the path crosses some accres where the signs are difficult to be found (at least for me). I make my orientation with the compass, the map and the transmission towers that I pass to make sure I am going in the right direction. After crossing Lubovec the Trail continues by using the regular road to the village of Radatice (dirty street, much waste). After Radatice the road is easy and straight, but the Trail decides to leave this comfort behind and continues through many curves, slopes and bushes in the same direction to the village of Cemjata. After loosing the signs in the forrest, I follow the regular road again (not very busy) and meet the white-red-white signs again just before passing Cemjata. The Trail continues to the next village, Zabijana, and then goes downhill into the open fields, crossing the national road from Presov to the west. Shortly after the Trail leads through the village of Maly Saris and consequently through the town of Velky Saris. The Trail passes the famous brewery near the railway station. Only a few minutes later I arrive at the holliday park where I have made a reservation for the night.

The only accomodation that was available was a fully equiped  family bungalow. The day was long and warm, and I have a few blisters under both my feet. I have covered today approximately 63km, of which 59km on the E8-Trail. The rest was extra excercise, due to missing signs or misinterpreting them. Tomorrow I want to get up early to make it another interesting day on the Trail.

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Zlata Idka – Kosice

Stage   no. 69
Date Sunday 9 October 2011
Distance stage      19,5 km
Distance acum. 2565,0 km
Quality of signs good
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, forrests

Today is the second day of my two-day hiking trip. As today’s stage is scheduled to finish in Kosice, which is not so far anymore, I can have breakfast at a decent hour. At the same time the first guests of the wedding party of last night are having their sandwiches and eggs as the start of the new day.

The weather is okay when I leave the hotel around 8.45am. There is a lot of overcast, but it is not expected to rain today. From Zlata Idka I walk up the hill again, back to the ridge of the hills that surround this valley. Once up on the ridge again, the Trail is easy to follow, also because the signs are in good quality. In the first hour of today’s hike there are a few hikers coming from the other direction. They have probabely stayed in the refuge Chata Lajoska. When I arrive there I take a break. There is much activity going on; people that have stayed the night are leaving, daytrippers are coming up from the valley, many mountainbikers are passing by, or just riding up and down to the refuge.

Chata Lajoska

After the Chata Lajoska it only gets easier. The Trail goes downhill, slowly or steep, more or less all the way to the city of Kosice. Just below the Chata there is a nice view all the way down to Kosice. Unfortunately, due to the situation of the city behind the hills, there is no more nice views in the next kilometers. At one third of the decent the Trail passes the refuge Chata Lahodna. It is situated next to the regular road, near a busstop, and surrounded by skiing facilities. There are many Sunday tourists up here for a walk or a ride. From the Chata Lahodna the path goes down the hill comfortably, to the Bankov Hill. From here you can have a nice view over the city of Kosice. It is very busy around here, the parking lots are full and there are buses driving up and down constantly. From Bankov the Trail continues east towards Cermel, the first residential area in the suburbs of Kosice.

Unfortunately, the Trail does not lead gloriously through the city centre, but leaves Cermel/Kosice immediately northbound. From Cermel I take a bus and a tram to get to the central railway station. I have a few hours to spend in Kosice as I will be taking the night train back to Bratislava.


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Stos-Kupele – Zlata Idka

Stage   no. 68
Date Saturday 8 October 2011
Distance stage     26,0 km
Distance acum. 2545,5 km
Quality of signs good
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, forrests

I have travelled to Slovakia for a two-day hiking trip. After arriving yesterday afternoon in Bratislava the public transportation was able to get me as far as the city of Spisska Nova Ves. For today I have planned to take the bus in the early morning from Spisska Nova Ves to my starting point in Stoss-Kupele. Unfortnately I am waiting at the wrong bus stop for the bus to Stoss-Kupele, so I miss it. I change my plans immediately, as there is always a plan B, and I catch the train to Kosice, from where I take a bus to Stoss-Kupele.

It is just before 9.00am when I start in Stos-Kupele. The weather is okay for October; there’s a little bit of sunshine, and the temperature is comfortable. The first part of the stage goes uphill, from 600 meters in Stos-Kupele to the top of the Kloptan Hill at 1453 meters. The Path is well to do, a bit steep in the beginning, and signs are clear and sufficient. On the top of the Kloptan there is a watchtower, including a visitorsbook. By the time I get up there the weather is not so great anymore. There is more overcast coming in from the north.


From the Kloptan it only gets easier, first gently downhill and later on a little bit less gently. Although the biggest part of today’s stage is leading through forrests there are some nice views towards the south now and then. The plains in Hungary look very close by. which they are, at a distance of 25 kilometers only. While climbing uphill towards the refuge Chata Erika I meet one of the very few people that are in the hills today. In the middle of the forrest, high up on an isolated hill, he is mowing the grass. When I ask him what it is for, he explains (with hand and feet, as he speakes no English) that he is preparing the slopes for the winter time, when this area seems to be a hotspot for cross-country skiing.

Autumn in the Kosicky Hills

In the afternoon I pass the refuge Chata Erika. It is closed for reconstruction, but it is not noticeable that there is anything going on. From the refuge the climb up to top of the Kojsovska Hola starts. It is about 150 meters uphill, from the forrest out up on the plain and open top. The Trail does not lead to the top, but continous southeastbound just below the top of the hill. The last part of the stage is downhill to the village of Zlata Idka. Some sections are steep, but in general the decent is easy to do. The weather is improving, as the sun is getting more and more its way through the clouds. Just before 5.00pm I arrive after an easy day in Zlata Idka.

I have a reservation in the only hotel that I could find on the internet. The receptionist of the hotel told me, when I made the reservation this afternoon (along the Trail), that they do not have dinning facilities tonight due to a big wedding party that they have. When I ask for directions in the village it turns out that the hotel is known under a different name, and that it is still a few kilometers to get there. Slovakian villages in this part of the country are extremely wide spread, and Zlata Idka is just like that. I have dinner in a place that has a sign “bistro” on the outside but that has no resemblance to any cosy and intimate restaurant in Paris. The owner of the bistro turns out to be an Olympian (1992 and 1996) who is proud of his pictures and souvenirs from his glory days. He gives the directions how to get to the hotel. The way to the hotel, still some 25 minutes walking, is along the Trail. The night falls and I find out that there are a few other places to eat in the village along the Trail. It is very dark by the time I get to the hotel. It is not big, it is situated outside the village on the eastside where the forrest begins. The wedding party is loud, but not irritating, and it is not keeping me from having a good night sleep.

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Skalisko – Stos-Kupele

Stage   no. 67
Date Saturday 2 July 2011
Distance stage      28,0 km
Distance acum. 2519,5 km
Quality of signs bad
Quality of the hike C (good): hills, forrests

Today is my last day of my three-day hiking trip. I am in good spirits when I wake up (again very early) but I have my concerns about the poor quality of the signs in this part of the Trail. I leave the refuge just before sunrise in order to be able to use the daylight to the maximum extend from the top of the Skalisko onwards.

At 4.15am I am again up at the Skalisko, next to the big rock. According to the map the Trail follows the sharp ridge of the Skalisko to the east, until the shoulder named Tri Cholare. In reality it is not so simple. The ridge is not sharp edged and narrow, like on big mountains. It is wide, sometimes even more than 100 meters, and there is lots of vegetation like trees, bushes, long grass, etc. There is no clear overview, so it can very well be that according to the map I need to walk 100% east, but in reality I have to go some hundreds of meters northeast followed by a section to the southeast. The descent from the Skalisko is well to do, although the many chopped trees that are blocking the path force me to make many d-tours. The weather is not so good; it is cold, there is a lot of overcast and sometimes it starts to drizzle and rain. At a small junction in the woods called Sedlo Krive I am not concentrated and I take the wrong direction. I find out five minutes later and go back, no big deal. Except that the hill in the direction where I should be going is completely ruined; the path vanishes into the forrest ground, all trees have been chopped and crushed. I walk a few times up and down the hill but I am not able to find any possbility to move on, or even any indication where to go to. I decide to go back to the point where I found out I was going the wrong direction, half an hour before, and make a short cut through the fields and woods to the other side of the hill. The first part of the short cut is well to do, but after a few minutes the soil gets wet and soft. Carefully walking up the hill it gets less steep, but in return the soil starts to look more like a indeep marsh. On the top of the sloop that I am climbing the visibility is poor again, due to the fog. Once I get to the other side of the hill, still carefully putting my feet on the “ground” I see a forrest ahead of me. This means fixed soil and dry feet, and I move in that direction, slowly step by step, to try to keep the water from floating my shoes. According to the map I should be heading straight for a path that is marked with yellow signs, but nowhere I can see any sign or indication that there could be a path or road. After 10 minutes I approach the first trees of the forrest, and all of a sudden I am standing on a forrest road, with yellow signs left and right of me. I am completely surprised, and happy! I follow the road to the south, and after only 100 meters I bump into the red/white signs of the Trail! Unbelievable that I was so close to the path, or where it was supposed to be, and that I was fighting through the bush and swamp! Without more complications I arrive at the Uhornianske Sedlo, where the Trail crosses the regular road. The Slovaks told me last night that the following section, to Stoss-Kupele, is also in “heavy condititions”. Considering i) the condition of the section that I have just finished ii) the fact that the signs are in very poor quality iii) that I am alone iv) my feet are soaken wet v) it rains and the visibility is poor, I decide to choose for health & safety and I will follow the regular road through Uhorna and Smolnik and catch up with the Trail at Stoske Sedlo. It is not a shortcut as there are many curves and turns in the road. The first section, down to Uhorna, is very steep for cars, and regular steep for hikers.

steep hill

After a few minutes of descending the trees on the right hand side have made way for a meadow, that allows some nice views into the valley and the low hanging clouds. I hear some mooing sounds behind me, like from a cow. My first thought is that it is much too steep here for cows to walk around. I turn around and see some 20 meters behind me a big deer jumping from the uphill side out of the trees on the road. Without stopping it turns its head in my direction and then jumps immediately off the road, downhill onto the meadow. It is being followed within a second by a huge wolf! I am startled and walk to the edge of the road to see if I can see how this piece of natural behaviour ends, but I can’t see any of them anymore. Without any other excitement I pass the small village Uhorna, where I have a break for some mueslibars as a late breakfast. It is raining constantly now but there’s no wind, so as long as I’m moving I’m warm. Following the easy road I pass the suburbs of Smolnik.


At the junction I follow the road uphill to Stoske Sedlo. At this point I pick up the Trail again. The signs are clear and it’s easy to follow them to Stos-Kupele, where I arrive at 11.10am.

Stos-Kupele is a very small village isolated on a hill at the end of road from Stos. On weekend days, like today, it is not easy to escape from Stos-Kupele. There’s a bus at 11.51 to the east to Kosice, and a bus at 11.57 to Spisska Nova Ves in the north. From both locations I can travel back to Bratislava easily. As I have always been trying at the end of all my E8-stages to travel backwards home, I choose for the 11.57 bus to Spisska Nova Ves, as I will not be crossing unknown territory by doing so. I will arrive in Kosice along the E8 in one or two stages from now. The first bus passes by at 11.50 without stopping. I get ready by putting my wet shoes on again, and folding my raincape into my backpack. At 11.58 the next bus stops. It turns out to be the 11.51 service to Kosice. The first bus was the bus that I was supposed to be in, but it was 8 minutes early. When I tell this to the driver he looks like he cannot do anything about this situation. “Ees toet mier leit”, he says, appologizing on behalf of the bus company and his collegue. Having no other option I take the bus to Kosice, and from there the first train to Bratislava. I don’t leave the bus & railway station to go into town or so. I am not supposed to be here, yet.

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Telgart – Skalisko

Stage   no. 66
Date Friday 1 July 2011
Distance stage      42,0 km
Distance acum. 2491,5 km
Quality of signs very bad!
Quality of the hike D (not so good): great views and undisturbed nature is followed by many times crossing directly through woods and fields, path hidden or not existing

Today is the second day of my three-day hiking trip. During the night I was able to dry my clothes and shoes after yesterday’s drowning experience.

I leave just before 4.00am, before sunrise, as the first kilometers are along the regular road up to the pass Sedlo Besnik. Exactly when the daylight breaks the night I arrive at the pass and go right into the woods. The weather turns out the very nice in the early moning; clear blue sky, temperature still low, the forrests awakening. I enter now the area that is named Slovakian Paradise. It is a national parc, with small hills, hardly any infrastructure and lots of peace and silence. Wonderfull! I see many animals, haze, deer and even wild horses. After approx. 18 kilometers the Trail leaves the lovely nature and crosses the road between Dobsina and Dobsinska Lavoda. There is a nice window between the trees to the village of Dedinky and its lake.

Dobsina and its lake

Shortly after I arrive at the Dobsinsky Kopec, where some local roads are crossing. Until this point the signs along the Trail were good. At this crossing I follow a sign that indicates some jumping and crawling to continue on the other side of a gutter. After ten minutes I am stuck between bush and no indication of any path, I realize I am on the wrong way and I go back. It turns out the road sign should be read as “first 80 meters in the other direction, and then to the left”. It’s not ruining my good mood. Looking back to where I come from the peak of the Kál’ova Hola is still attracting the clouds and bad weather, just like yesterday.

looking back to the Král’ova Hola

I continue crossing the forrest along gentle hills. At one point the path that the Trail uses gets lost in the woods on a crossing of 6 roads. I try most of them with no avail and decide to follow the compass, straight through the wood and the bushes. I enter into a field with grass up to 1.20 meters height and I see in the far distance a sign that is painted on a tree. I am on the right track again. Some 20 minutes before I should arrive on the pass Pod Stromisom the signs on the Trail indicate in a different direction than what I expect and where the map shows me to go. I decide to disregard the signs and to follow the map; at least then I know where I am going to. There are no more signs in the next 1.5 kilometers. I check the map and the compass continuously and I realise that this road, and its direction, are not on my map. I decide to go back to the unexpected junction and go the way that is indicated. The Trail goes east, and crosses a plain valley to end up on the ridge. Of course there are no signs for more than a kilometer. Following the compass I make sure where exactly I am on the map and than I decide to make a shortcut through the wood straight to where I expect the Trail to be. After three minutes only I cross indeed the Trail, clearly marked. Altogether I have lost more than one hour in this small section of the stage. I follow the Trail uneventfull to the Sedlo Sulova, where the Trail crosses the regular road. There is a complete set of signs on the Sedlo for all paths that cross this point of the road, except the sign indicating in the direction where I am going to; it has been removed. Using the map I find the red-white signs easily enough and follow my way. A few minutes later the wood lightens up as I approach a section of the hills where all trees have been chopped. I pass a few junctions where no signs can be found. Walking up and down a bit, trying to find a clue where to go to I loose again time and energy. It’s not fun anymore, to walk this stage. Further up the hill many trees have been crushed and leftovers are covering the entire hill side including the path and make it next to invisible.

difficult to find the way

I arrive at Sedlo Volovec, just below the peak of the Skalisko hill. The signs here are clear and I hope I can follow them easily towards the peak. Unfortunately, the signs stop in the woods, the path ends at some point halfway the peak and I have to use my compass again to find the direction again. The weather is not so nice anymore, by now. There are many clouds, the wind has started blowing again, and it’s chilly. The top of the Skalisko looks like a huge plains of some hundreds of square meters. All of a sudden a 10 meters high rock appears from the fogg, which is the real peak of the hill.

From here I follow the green signs to the southwest where I arrive after 10 minutes in the refuge Chata Volovec. It’s 5.15pm. Fortunately the refuge is open, there is a keeper who prepares a simple dinner for me; again bread with sausages and soup and omelet. It’s enough, the taste is good and it’s cheap.

at the Chata Volovec

After dinner two more hikers arrive in the refuge. They are Slovaks and they have started 8 days ago the Slovakian part of the E8 at the Polish border. They follow the Trail in the oposite direction, from east to west. The amazing aspect of their trip is that one of the guys is completely blind! We exchange experiences of our stages of today. They tell me that the stage that I am planning for tomorrow is also dominated by missing signs and paths that end in the middle of nowhere. “We had to use all our eyes to move on”, the blind guy says. Also in some sections many trees have been chopped or crushed. The remainders are blocking the path as well which can create difficult situations for hikers. I go to bed early. Tomorrow is going to be another tough day.

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Sedlo Oravcova – Telgart

Stage   no. 65
Date Thursday 30 June 2011
Distance stage      26,5 km
Distance acum. 2449,5 km
Quality of signs Okay
Quality of the hike C (good): mountains, bushes, nice views

I have travelled to Slovakia for a three-day hiking trip. After the disappointment of last time (more than one year ago!) I am now back in the middle of summer. No chances for any snow where I will be hiking this time! Last night I took the last bus from Brezno in Zavadka nad Hronom. It goes through a quite mountain valley, passing some small villages. Some of them have a very typical scenery: when the bus approaches the village it first passes one or two backstreets where gipsies live in houses without windows or doors. The next minute the bus passes some streets with regular Slovakian houses, followed by the centre of the village with a church or town hall. Then the bus passes again some streets with regular Slovakian houses, followed by again one or two backstreets where gipsies live in worndown houses. When I left the bus in Zavadka I smelled a very strong scent of flowers, coming from the gardens of the houses, and from the fields surrounding the village. It is clear that the air over here is so much cleaner than it is back home, that your sense organs give very strong impulses to your brain about what they sense.  It’s a special experience. In the very early morning I am back at the Sedlo Oravcova where I had to quit the last time. In order to be able to find my way without problems I wait for the sunrise. At approx. 3.30am a huge thunderstorm crashes its way into the Lower Tatras, leaving everything shocked and wet.

 The distance that needs to be covered today is long (including the section from Zavadka up the mountain to my starting point). Also the many meters climbing and descending will not make it easier. In addition the weather forecast for today is not so good. At 4.15am I start my hike, for which I have been mentally preparing for a long time now. Due to the thunderstorm and rain all the grass, bushes and trees are wet. The Trail follows a path that is very narrow. Passing trees without touching them is impossible. At 4.25am, only 10 minutes after my start, I am soaken wet from my toes up to my waist. Completely soaken wet! I do my best to maintain a constant pace. After two hours I pass a shelter that is situated just behind the top of the Vel’ka Vapenica. It is robust, dry and there’s nobody around. I take off my shoes and socks and try to get them to dry a little bit.

Andrejcova Bivouac

After the short break I continue my way. It starts to rain and the visibilty, which was okay so far, is getting less and less. The Trail follows the main ridge of the Lower Tatras, which looks simple on the map but is not so easy in reality. Many turns and curves, even with compass at hand, make it very difficult to find my way. Fortunately there are many signs, mostly on big rocks along the Trail, as well as on sticks of 1.5 meter height. The fogg gets thicker while I am climbing up to the top of the Orlova, where the highest section of this part of the Lower Tatras is situated. I follow the signs, not being able to see beyond 20 or 30 meters. All of a sudden I realize I have seen a certain rock with signs before. My compass confirms to me that, indeed, I am not going eastbound anymore, but west! I turn around and carefully make sure I stay on the right track. After the Orlova, at 1800+ meters altitude, the wind is blowing fiercely, the visibility is next to nothing, and the rain is pouring down constantly. I can follow the Trail without difficulty and when I pass a big rock I almost bump into two hikers that are going in the oposite direction. They are starteled as well and after a short “good luck” we continue our ways. The top of the Kral’ova Hola is right in front of me, I know, as I can see it on the map. Only four minutes before I pass the huge broadcast tower I start to see it through the fogg.

four minutes to go to the Král’ova Hola

Funny that I saw it when I was 40 kilometers further away, but hardly today, even when I am passing it at some 50 meters distance! The wind (storm?) and the rain really make this a horrible place to be right now. After passing the top the road goes down and after a few minutes the Trail leaves the road and crosses some lovely meadows and fields. Lovely on a bright summer day, but today everything is wet and slippery.

the Trail, slippery when wet!

I manage to find my way down, but I can not avoid for my trousers to get covered with dirt and mud. The closer I get to the village of Telgart, down in the valley, the better the weather gets. There is no more wind, and halfway down the mountain it stops raining. An hour later, around 2.45pm, down in the valley, the weather is almost summerlike, with a some clouds along the blue sky. Looking back up the mountain the peak is still covered in clouds, and it looks like there’s still a storm going on up there.

Telgart is only a very small village, so when I pass a very small grocery shop I go in and buy some snacks and food for tomorrow’s stage. I continue my way to Pension Telgart, which is situated directly along the Trail, and where I stay for the night. The owner of the pension gives me all the old newspapers that he has so I can try to get my shoes dry before the morning.

remainders of map nr. 123

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